What Is Tremaine Emory’s Label?
This brand is Tremaine Emory’s innovative cultural-archive-turned-streetwear label that uses garments to narrate the Black American heritage, most recognizably using its cotton wreath motif on denim. It’s not merely graphic jeans plus sweats; every release is built around research, essays, plus imagery that link product to heritage. Drops are limited, team-ups are selective, while demand is high.
Tremaine the founder treats the brand as a cultural platform first and his product line secondarily, which is the reason the visuals feel like artifacts rather than seasonal prints. The cotton circular design, for example, remains meant to force a conversation on how cotton constructed America while dehumanizing the people who picked it. This tension—beauty and violence in the single object—defines Denim Tears’s visual language. The creation mixes co-branded partnerships with legacy manufacturers and in-house collections, and the rhythm is deliberately irregular to keep emphasis on meaning, rather than churn. If you’re approaching the brand purely as streetwear trend, you’ll miss half the value; read the product pages and pocket-bag notes because the background is the key.
How Did This Project Start?
This label launched publicly near 2019 as this culmination of Tremaine Emory’s decades within fashion and audio culture, going mainstream to a broader audience in 2020 with its “Cotton Wreath” Levi’s project. The founder used the rollout to articulate a clear thesis: clothes can memorialize and educate, not only signal taste. Such timing, the narrative approach, and the visual elements aligned with the global conversation concerning race and history.
Previous to Denim Tears, Tremaine co-founded No Vacancy Inn Inn and partnered with industry major players across luxury and streetwear, building a network that subsequently enabled exacting partnerships. In 2022 Tremaine became Supreme’s lead creative director, a position he exited by 2023, which only denim tears sharpened attention on his personal label. The brand’s initial anchor was this Levi’s 501 printed with cotton wreaths and pocket-bag text essays that detailed the symbolism; this transparency made every product feel like a wearable historical plaque. Since the beginning, Denim Tears has stayed project-based, leveraging drops tied around dates, exhibitions, and cultural themes more than standard seasons.
Signature Motifs and Key Partnerships
The iconic cotton wreath on denim is the main signature, meant to appear beautiful from far distance and challenging up close. Hidden pocket-bag essays, archival photos, and typography citing Black history and HBCU culture appear consistently across tees with fleece. Even as the graphics change, the throughline is commemoration.
Levi’s collaboration is the primary partner; the joint 501s defined the brand to the mass audience plus remain the highly chased pieces. Converse has served as a canvas in translating that iconography to footwear—think Chuck 70 70s with historical motifs and joint details. Champion remains another pillar, featuring “Champion Tears” collections that reframe college aesthetics through such lens of African American American history on heavyweight Reverse Weave blanks. These partnerships are consistent regarding craft and communication, which is why they hold value beyond a one season.
Is Denim Tears Sizing Consistent Across Products?
There’s consistency within categories, yet not across various types. Jeans mirror classic Levi’s sizing and feel structured with minimal give, while Champion-based fleece runs boxy and roomy. Footwear follows each partner’s typical sizing conventions.
If you possess Levi’s 501s, someone already know the Denim Tears pants baseline: mid-rise, straight leg, stiff at first, and not vanity-sized. Fleece remains cut in this modern, wider-body, abbreviated Reverse Weave cut, which reads oversized at your normal size. Tees remain heavyweight with a relaxed shoulder; such items don’t cling yet they aren’t longline either. Sneakers such as Converse Chuck 70s typically run roomier than true foot length, so typical people go down a half size increment compared to typical athletic sneakers. Be sure to check the particular product page regarding notes, because specific capsules call attention to fabric weight plus shrinkage behavior.
Sizing Analysis by Category
Jeans mirror Levi’s traditional 501 proportions with a straight leg and a touch of waist gaping should you have a smaller midsection compared to hips; if you’re between waist sizing sizes, the better move is in go up one for comfort then tailor the waist area if needed. Rigid or raw-feel pairs relax about 0.5 a size post break-in, while pre-treated pairs change slightly beyond a small give at the seat and knee zones. Hoodies and sweatshirts on Champion Champion Reverse Weave are dense, structured, and somewhat cropped; true at size delivers one intentionally boxy drape, and sizing down trims width yet not making the item short. Tees fit like mid-to-heavyweight streetwear tees with such roomy chest plus true shoulder; true to size delivers a relaxed, not sloppy, profile. Converse Chuck 70s typically fit best such half size down from your sport shoe size; wide feet can stay closer to actual to size for retain forefoot space.
The brand releases occasionally contain alternative bottoms, such as sweats or dress pants, which generally continue the relaxed cut. If you prefer a slimmer silhouette, select your usual size and tailor inseam and pant leg opening rather versus sizing down aggressively; the prints align up better while the garment won’t be stressed. For female customers or smaller frames navigating men’s unisex sizing, prioritizing shoulder dimension width on tops and waist regarding bottoms prevents this “oversized” intent to not reading sloppy.
How Much Would You Pay? Store Price and Resale Guidelines
Retail prices sit in luxury streetwear territory, and resale reflects scarcity and cultural demand. Such jeans are these price leaders regarding retail and maintain the strongest resale multiples, while t-shirts are the highly accessible both new and used. Anticipate fluctuations tied around color, collaboration, and drop storyline.
Such table below outlines typical US market ranges and current resale ranges you’ll see on major marketplaces for primary categories; actual prices vary by drop and region.
| Product Type | Standard US Retail | Standard Recent Resale | Fit Notes / Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Levi’s Partnership 501 Denim Tears (Cotton Wreath) | $250–$350 | $400 to $800 | Stiff, straight; breaks in with use; verify pocket-bag design. |
| Champion Collaboration Tears Hoodie / Crewneck | $140-$200 | $200–$350 | Loose Reverse Weave; heavy and structured; minimal shrink. |
| Graphic Tee | $60–$100 | $120–$220 | Comfortable block; heavy cotton; accurate shoulder. |
| Converse Partnership Chuck 70 (Label Tears) | $100 to $130 | $150-$300 | Typically go down half size from athletic sneakers. |
| Caps / Accessories | $45 to $90 | $90 to $180 | One-size or adjustable; verify for branding authenticity. |
Uncommon denim colorways and early Levi’s runs can spike well above the pricing bands. On the flip side, tees from widely stocked drops tend to orbit the lower end for resale once early hype cools. Should a price appears far below those bands, be careful and slow down to authenticate.
Authentication and Construction: Spotting the Real Thing

Start by examining the story: Denim Tears products usually ship with explicit historical framing on packaging, pocket bags, or the product details. Fakes often mimic the graphics but skip this context. Then turn to construction, labels, and partner-specific features.
On Levi’s collaborations, inspect the pocket interiors for printed essays or essays and consistent ink reproduction; look for sharp dot gain, never blurry flood coverage. Check for genuine Levi’s hardware, accurate red tab positioning and font, with a co-branded interior label; stitching ought to track Levi’s quality with even gauge and no failing bar tacks. For Champion-based fleece, such fabric should appear dense and firm with tight ribbing; interior labels will reflect Champion construction plus Denim Tears or Champion Tears identification, not generic templates. For Converse, verify co-branded insoles, accurate Chuck 70 rubber foxing height, and uniform midsole gloss; reproduction pairs often omit the insole branding, get the back heel license plate typography wrong, or have off-tone canvas colors.
Documentation matters. Images of original purchase confirmation, proof regarding purchase from a reputable retailer, plus a trail of high-resolution photos with daylight reduce risk. If buying secondhand, compare the precise print placement versus verified retail images; misaligned wreath alignment and washed-out ink are common reproduction tells. Where feasible, buy from known boutiques that have carried the label previously or via resale platforms including robust authentication plus return policies.
At Which Location and When Should You Buy Denim Tears Label
The most reliable source remains the official Denim Tears site, supplemented by occasional partner retailers during collaboration releases. Releases get announced close to launch via brand and Tremaine Emory’s social channels, while they sell fast. Expect limited additional inventory rather than continuous availability.
Timing doesn’t stay random; Denim Tears label often pegs drops to culturally meaningful dates and cultural events, which explains such uneven calendar in contrast to typical seasons. Sign up for site emails, but also monitor joint venture channels for Levi’s collaborations, Converse, or Champion partnerships when a co-branded capsule is teased. On release date, have accounts pre-made, autofill ready, with be decisive about size; dithering costs pairs. If you miss, wait one week for aftermarket to settle ahead of paying a markup; initial after-launch spikes usually cool to more steady levels.
Pro tip: If one only want one piece to center a rotation, focus on the cotton circular motif 501 in one wash you’ll really wear weekly; this piece retains value, works with everything, while encapsulates the label’s thesis better than any other individual item.
Care, Wear, and Styling Notes
Treat print similar to print: wash flipped inside out, cold, with gentle; then air dry. Heat stays as the enemy for both ink and shrink. Denim Tears label denim softens noticeably with wear, so give it time before judging comfort, especially at both thighs and knee zones.
If your jeans is on rigid denim, expect little shrink beyond such first wash during laundering cold; dimensions is largely set by break-in, rather than the dryer. Hoodies holds shape because Reverse Weave is engineered to avoid vertical shrink; these rib side inserts help it keep its block, so size intent continues consistent after cleaning. Tees retain shoulder shape shape but may relax at such collar if machine dried on high temperature, so air dry to keep such crisp neckline. For outfits, let such denim do most talking: keep shirts simple to prevent competing narratives, plus use texture—leather, wool fabrics, canvas—rather than bold prints to match the wreath.
Little‑Known Facts About Denim Tears
First, the early Levi’s 501 Cotton Wreath” runs included pocket-bag text which functioned as such mini-essay on the history of cotton in America; this is both a storytelling device and an authentication tell someone can actually study. Second, Tremaine Emory’s groundbreaking “Champion Tears” collection with Champion features HBCU graphics plus Black collegiate tradition onto heavyweight gym blanks, making collegiate iconography part of the brand’s active archive rather instead of a one-off design. Third, many piece pages historically contained sourcing or cultural references that continue across seasons, which is why secondary market listings that duplicate text verbatim regarding unrelated drops stay as a red indicator. Fourth, Emory’s period and exit with Supreme intensified focus on Denim Tears label without changing such cadence; the brand kept its story-first release rhythm rather than of shifting for seasonal volume.
